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Much more than the beautiful medieval town that gives the region its name, Mediterranean Perpignan is a mix of urban and natural attractions nestled between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean. Like the better-known and busier south of France, hundreds of miles to the east, this southwestern region has a 25-mile stretch of beach resorts and spectacular mountain scenery in the downtown area. Until 1659, culturally and culinarily, it belonged to this region and not to the Côte d'Azur, which borders Italy. Nestled between the sea and the mountains, this vibrant capital of French Catalonia has a medieval center and its main historical building is the 13th-century Palace of the Kings of Mallorca. Climb the 142 steps of Castile, the gateway to the famous fortified city, and enjoy panoramic views of the Basque River. Or stroll through the narrow streets to reach Riga's Hyacinth Museum. Despite its ancient remains, this impressive gallery houses an extensive collection of artworks related to or inspired by the region, from medieval religious paintings to cutting-edge collages. An entire room is dedicated to the post-impressionist Raoul Duffy. He is one of the many famous painters who were fascinated by Perpignan.
Perhaps the best local example of 21st century applied art is the beautifully woven striped textiles that are synonymous with the city. Look for it at Les Toiles du Soleil, located in a beautiful square overlooking the palace. This department store, with branches in New York and Tokyo, sells not only its garden fabrics, but also beautiful and colorful pottery and other homewares. Elsewhere in the center, beach bags decorated with silver and gold ribbons offer another form of local retail. Kartell and other high-end furniture stores are based in the Haut Dame de France, a beautiful old Art Nouveau store on the Place de France. With its iconic statue of a little man sitting on a huge red chair, this large square pays homage to the Surrealist Salvador Dalí, called Gare Perpignan, and looks directly at the center of the world. Surprisingly chic for a budget hotel, the Ibis Styles Perpignan Center is full of colorful fabrics and plantations and has an all-day bar with a charming little garden where you can enjoy a beer or coffee. From here it's just a 10-minute walk via Place Cataline to the old town.
Locals gather in droves to eat in the outdoor common area next to Wobben's Hall. This food hall brings together a wide range of food tastes, from fresh oysters to cheese and meat tapas plates and sliders to fantastic artisanal wood-fired pizzas. Almost across the street from Place Arago's lively restaurants is Fer Café Vien, an authentic ice cream parlor where you can still find chocolate desserts and the increasingly rare Café Ligeois. For an authentic tableside lunch, enjoy refined regional dishes such as roasted seagulls at Restaurant Jean-Pierre Rosemo, accompanied by a bottle of delicious local Cotes Catalanes rosé. This small but large coastal town has charming narrow streets and a market square with giant crocheted octopuses taking shelter among the trees.
However, its greatest fame is its wide, wild and sheltered beaches full of sand dunes and sea grass. There is live music throughout the summer, including a jazz festival in July, which takes place next to the beautiful 15th-century Notre-Dame de Jog chapel, a jewel in the crown of the trail. Don't miss the beautiful adjacent monastery and garden, which serves as Treil's community center. The new Gaia Hotel is unexpected but interesting. The state-of-the-art concrete room décor is complemented by an attractive courtyard with an ornamental pool and the state-of-the-art furnishings include exquisite croissants, fresh orange juice and eggs cooked to order. Beach restaurants are the only permitted infrastructure on the wild sandy beaches and are the perfect place to admire the crashing waves and lush seaweed. But on market days, Tuesday and Friday mornings all year round, there's nothing better than a plate of freshly made fidua, a unique Catalan paella dish that uses vermicelli instead of rice. It is served to hungry customers from giant pans set up on the square and is bound to sell out.
Like Treuil, it is a real town with urban charm and some great beaches along the way. From the Old Hall square, a walk through the streets lined with decorative parasols leads to the artists' quarter, whose walls are delightfully decorated with trompe l'oeil paintings. The neighborhood features works by Bernard Gox, a well-known muralist and long-time resident. Enjoy dinner with sand between your toes at the Beach Club du Plage Victoria. Enjoy a well-rounded menu that offers both excellent sushi and excellent paella, almost the national dish of this former French corner of Spain.
